Lesson 2 - Basic Knitting
Introduction & Swatch #1

Although machines are not all the same as far as programming & settings, all will knit the same basic stitches.  This lesson teaches how to make the basic stitch called Stockinette, Plain Knitting or Jersey.  All three names are for the same stitch.  It is common for there to be more than 1 name for a technique or stitch in knitting.  If ever encountering a term that is not known to you, see the glossary for other terms for the technique or stitch.

In addition to learning to do plain knitting, this lesson shows how to cast on, bind off, decrease, increase, eyelets and sew off.  These are very basic knitting techniques.  There are 4 swatches to knit before knitting the project for this lesson.  It's best to knit the swatches to learn the techniques before moving on to the lesson project or the next lesson.  The swatches are meant for practice, and mistakes can be made.  Don't get frustrated if you get a few dropped stitches in your first set of swatches.  If you do encounter problems, remake the swatches.  You'll find that the 2nd time around, your knitting will look much better.

Save your swatches.  They will make good reference samples for each technique that is learned, so you might label them.  They will, also, be fun to see at a future date.  You will be able to see how much your knitting has improved.

The instructions for each swatch will include long hand & with knitting abbreviations.  Most knitting instructions are written with the common abbreviations.  It's a good idea to always have an abbreviation list handy when first learning how to knit.

Tools Needed
These swatches will only require very basic tools.
• Cast On Comb or Weight Hem for Bond Machines
• Needle Pusher
• Latch Tool
• 1-Prong x 3-Prong Tool
• Clothespin
• 2 Colors of plain yarn that is suitable for machine.

Choosing Yarn
It's best to start with a very basic yarn that knits on a middle tension on the tension dial.  DO NOT choose a fancy or novelty yarn.  A plain, straight acrylic or wool yarn will work best for these swatches.  An inexpensive acrylic yarn will work.  To learn more about the different yarn types, see the All About Yarn article on the Gold Site in the magazine section.

This is a yarn size recommendations by machine gauge.  Choose a yarn that is the correct weight for your machine.  There is also a recommended yarn that is an inexpensive acrylic yarn for each machine gauge.  This will also be the recommended yarn for the project for this lesson.  Other yarns may be substituted if it's the correct weight of yarn.

Fine-Gauge - fingering weight yarn, Tamm's 3-Ply
Standard Gauge - fingering weight yarn, Tamm's 3-Ply
Mid-Gauge - worsted weight yarn, Tamm's Nordic
Bulky Gauge - worsted weight yarn, Tamm's Nordic
Bond Machines - worsted weight yarn, Bernat's Satin

If substituting a ball or skein of yarn for any machine except Bond machines, the yarn will need to be rewound with a ball winder.  Most machines (not Bond) require the yarn to be on a cone or would in a specific type ball.

Getting Set Up
Both yarns should be thread through the antenna.  The main color, Color A (lilac), is what the majority of the swatch will be knit in.  The accent color, Color B (yellow), is for the stripes.  It's best to place Color A in the right antenna (when in front of the machine), and Color B in the left.  This will make changing colors for the stripes easier.  Traditionally the main color will always go in the right antenna.

Set the tension dial on the carriage to a middle tension that is appropriate for the yarn.  Patterns generally refer to the setting on the carriage's tension dial as tension.  Most machine knit yarns will have a suggested tension on their website.  On the Gold Site, several machine knit Yarns are listed with a suggested tension.  Keep in mind that these are only suggested tensions.  Not all machines will knit alike, so sometimes the tension on your machine will be different than what is suggested in the pattern.  This will be discussed further in future lessons.

Bond Machines do not have a tension dial.  They have key plates.  See the manual for placement of the key plates.  Use a 2.5 or 3 key plate.  Note that some older Bond Machines do not have 2.5 key plate.

Swatch #1:  CO, Stripes & BO
In this swatch, you will learn how to E Wrap Cast On, Plain Knit, change colors to make a stripe, and Latch Tool Bind Off.

Knit Side or Right Side

Purl Side or Wrong Side

E Wrap Cast On is abbreviated as E Wrap CO or CO.  It is the most commonly used edging at the beginning of knit,  but there are many other types of cast ons that will be taught in later lessons.  This edging prevents the knit from unraveling.

Plain Knitting & knitting in stripes is the most basic of stitches in knitting. 

Latch Tool Bind Off is abbreviated as Latch Tool BO or BO.  It is the most commonly used edging at the end of knit, but there are many other types of bind offs that will be taught in later lessons.  This edging prevents the knit from unraveling.

Long Hand Instructions
E Wrap Cast On 30 needles in Color A.  Knit 10 rows.  Change to Color B.  Knit 2 rows.  Change to Color A.  Knit 10 rows.  Change to Color B.  Knit 2 rows.  Change to Color A.  Knit 10 rows.  Latch Tool Bind Off.

The above instructions are for the complete swatch.  Below are the same long hand instructions with each technique in step by step pictures.

E Wrap Cast On 30 needles in Color A.

Pull 30 needles to hold position with the needle pusher.  Most machines has a tape by the needles with numbers on it.  This tape makes it easy to find the specified number of needles.  Most of the time, the tape has -0- at the center, and then every 5th or 10th needle marked from the center.  Pull needle #15 on the left, needle #15 on the right , and all needles in between to hold position.  This places 15 needles on each side of -0- in the hold position.  15 + 15 = 30 needles.

The hold position (HP) is pulling the needles all the way out or closest to you when sitting in front of the machine.  There are 4 basic needle positions: Out of Work  Position (OWP), Working Position (WP), Forward Working Position (FWP), and Hold Position (HP).  Some machines will have labels on the side like A, B, C, D & E.  These can vary from machine to machine, so it's a good idea to get used to the position names.  The reason for each needle position will be covered in a future lesson.

The needles are pulled to hold position to make casting on and knitting the first row easier.  If working on a Bond Machine, hang the weighted hem as instructed by the manual.

The E Wrap Cast On is traditionally made left to right.  This places the yarn for knitting on the right side.  The right side is traditionally where the carriage ends & begins each technique. 

Use a clothespin to anchor the cut end of the yarn.  This frees up your hands, and prevents the antenna from pulling the yarn up.

Place the yarn between the 1st & 2nd end needles on the left side.  Take the yarn over the 1st needles (to left), and then under the needle.  Use your left thumb to hold the yarn under the needle.  Keep the yarn from the antenna in your right hand.

If the yarn with the clothespin attached is in your right hand, you are E Wrapping with the yarn end of the yarn.  Use the yarn end coming from the antenna.

*** Take the yarn under the next needle (2nd in below pictures), bring the yarn up to the right of the needle, and then take it over the needle (2nd in below pictures).

Use your left thumb to hold the E Wrap under the needle.   Repeat the following until all needles have an E Wrap Cast On.

"Take the yarn under the next needle, bring the yarn up to the right of the needle, and then take it over the needle.  Use your left thumb to hold the E Wrap under the needle."

The right picture below shows the beginning of the E Wrap on the 3rd needle.

This is how the E Wrap Cast On should look when completed.

The pictures below show the E Wrap Cast On that is not good.  The left picture shows a sloppy & loose E Wrap Cast On.  This will not make a nice edge.  The right picture shows a very tight E Wrap Cast On that will be impossible to knit.  Make sure that your E Wrap Cast On looks more like the right picture above.

Knit 10 rows.

If working on a Bond machine, push the needles to the forward working position so that they knit.  The needles will not knit if they are in the hold position.

Place the yarn in the feeder of the carriage.  Most carriages have 2 feeders.  Use the main feeder sometimes called feeder A or MC.  Take the carriage across the needles right to left.  The cast on row can seem difficult to knit.  Don't be afraid to push the carriage.  It can also sound loud.  This is normal.  If the carriage won't budge, it can mean that the cast on is too tight.  Or it could mean that the yarn is caught in the brushes under the carriage.

If problems occur, remove the carriage from the machine (see manual).  Redo the E Wrap Cast On looser.

This is how the first row will look after it is knitted.  Most machines require that the cast on comb is hung on the stitches so that the machine will knit properly.  Bond Machines are the exception because they use a weighted hem before the cast on is made.

Hang the cast on comb with the teeth into the knit.  Some cast on combs have teeth for every needle, and others are every other needle as shown in the below pictures.

The cast on comb will not always be the same width as the number of needles knitting.  It's best to use a cast on comb that is wider than the number of needles knitting than one that is smaller.  Some cast on combs comb in pieces that can be connected to make a wider cast on comb.

When hanging a cast on comb that is wider than the number of needles knitting, be sure to keep the yarn above the cast on comb teeth.  The picture to the left below shows the proper way to hang the cast on comb.  The picture to the right below will create a loop because the yarn is caught in the teeth of the cast on comb.

Continue to push the carriage across the needles.  Each time that the carriage moves across the needles, 1 row is knitted.  The instructions state to knit a total of 10 rows.  1 row has been knitted, knit 9 more rows to make a total of 10 rows.  The carriage should end on the right side at the end of the 10 rows.

If a loop is created on the edge, most likely the yarn got caught on the brushes under the carriage.  This is a common problem for beginners.  If a loop is created on this swatch, continue to knit.  Remember it's okay to make mistakes on these swatches.  They are for practice.

To prevent the loops, pull up on the yarn just before knitting a row as shown in the below right picture.

This is how it will look after 10 rows are knitted.  If the cast on comb falls off at any point, simply press the teeth back into the knit.  The teeth don't have to go back into the cast on edge, they can go into a few rows above the cast on to make attaching it easier.

Change to Color B.  Knit 2 rows. 

No need to cut the Color A yarn since only 2 rows are going to be knitted in Color B.  If more than 10-12 rows were to be knitted, then the yarn should be cut.

The Color A yarn can be pulled to the side of the machine.  Most machines have a notch to catch the yarn, and hold it (see manual).  Make sure that the yarn is out of the carriage feeder, and it is under the carriage.  This keeps the yarn out of the way while knitting Color B.  The left picture below shows Color A at the end of the machine.

Place Color B in the carriage feeder.  It should go in the same feeder that Color A used.  Use a clothespin to anchor the yarn.

Knit 2 rows with Color B.  The carriage should end on the right side.

Change to Color A.  Knit 10 rows.  Change to Color B.  Knit 2 rows.  Change to Color A.  Knit 10 rows. 

Do not cut Color B.  Take Color B out of the carriage, and bring to the side of the machine to hold it.  Take Color A from the side of the machine, and place in the carriage feeder.  Check to see if the yarns are tangled in the antenna.  If they are twisted, untwist them.

Knit 10 rows in Color A.

Do not cut Color A.  Place Color A to the side of the machine to hold.  Place Color B in the carriage feeder.  Knit 2 rows in Color B.  Notice how Color B travels up the side of the knit from the first stripe to the second in the left picture below.

There are no more stripes in Color B, so cut Color B.  Place Color A in the carriage feeder.  K 10 rows in Color A.

Latch Tool Bind Off.

The Latch Tool Bind Off is traditionally made from right to left.  This is because most patterns require an even number of rows, placing the carriage on the right at the end.  The Latch Tool Bind Off starts on the same end with the yarn from the carriage (right for this swatch).

Pull all needles to the hold position.  This will make the bind off faster and easier to do. 

Hold the yarn in the left hand, and the latch tool in the right hand.  To keep a better tension on the yarn, wrap the yarn over  the left index finger like in crochet.

The left hand will move the needles b the butt of the needle, and the right hand will use the latch tool to catch the stitches, and bind them off.

Some machines have gate pegs, sinker posts or gate posts by the hooks of the needles.  These are normally metal bed machines.  Other machines, mostly plastic bed, do not have any gate pegs.  The bind off technique is slightly different according to which type of machine you have.  The manual should indicate if the machine has gate pegs, sinker posts or gate posts.  Instructions for both are below.

Machines without gate pegs, sinker posts or gate posts
Place the hook of the latch tool in the hook of the 1st needle on the edge.  Using the left thumb, push the needle back to out of work position while keeping the 2 hooks together.

This places the stitch from the machine needle onto the latch tool.

Pull the machine needle that had the stitch on it out to the hold position with the left thumb & fore finger.  While pulling this needle out, keep the latch tool to the left of the needle, and the yarn from the antenna to the right of the needle.

Push the latch tool up so that the stitch goes behind the latch or under it.

Take the yarn over the needle, and place the yarn in the hook of the latch tool.  Pull the latch tool down to pull the yarn through the stitch.  This also creates a loop of the needle.

Repeat with the next needle.

"Place the hook of the latch tool in the hook of the 1st needle on the edge.  Push the needle back to out of work position while keeping the 2 hooks together placing the stitch on the latch tool. 

Pull the machine needle that had the stitch on it out to the hold position while keeping the latch tool to the left of the needle, and the yarn from the antenna to the right. 

Push the latch tool up so that the stitch goes behind the latch or under it. 

Take the yarn over the needle, and place the yarn in the hook of the latch tool.  Pull the latch tool down to pull the yarn through the stitch."

After all stitches have been bound off, this is how it will look.  Cut the yarn, and pull on the loop of the stitch that is on latch tool.  Pull the loop until the cut end of the yarn comes through to secure the bind off.  Pull the bind off edge off the needles.

Machines with gate pegs, sinker posts or gate posts
Place the hook of the latch tool in the hook of the 1st needle on the edge.  Using the left thumb, push the needle back to out of work position while keeping the 2 hooks together.

This places the stitch from the machine needle onto the latch tool.

Push the latch tool up so that the stitch goes behind the latch or under it. 

Take the yarn around the gate peg, and place the yarn in the hook of the latch tool.  Pull the latch tool down to pull the yarn through the stitch.  This also creates a loop around a gate peg.

Repeat with the next needle.

"Place the hook of the latch tool in the hook of the 1st needle on the edge.  Push the needle back to out of work position while keeping the 2 hooks together placing the stitch on the latch tool. 

Push the latch tool up so that the stitch goes behind the latch or under it. 

Take the yarn around the gate peg, and place the yarn in the hook of the latch tool.  Pull the latch tool down to pull the yarn through the stitch.  This also creates a loop around a gate peg."

After all stitches have been bound off, this is how it will look.  Cut the yarn, and pull on the loop of the stitch that is on latch tool.  Pull the loop until the cut end of the yarn comes through to secure the bind off.  Pull the bind off edge off the gate pegs.

After the knit is removed from the machine, the stitches need to be set.  Unlike hand knitting, the stitches are stressed while knitting on the machine.  Gently tug lengthwise on the knit to set the stitches.  This will relax the stitches.

This is a close up of the stripe on this swatch.  The knit side of the stripe creates a smooth stripe edge.  The purl side of the stripe has a dotted edge above and below the stripe.

Knit Side or Right Side

Purl Side or Wrong Side

Instructions with Abbreviations
CO 30 nd in Col. A.  K 10 R.  Change to Col. B.  K 2 R.  Change to Col. A.  K 10 R.  Change to Col. B.  K 2 R.  Change to Col. A.  K 10 R.  BO.

These instructions are more like typical pattern instructions.  Most pattern instructions are written with abbreviations.  Try making the swatch again, following the instructions with abbreviations.

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